Hi all , so , been out to a lighthouse to get a aerial view of it and it was very bright and my video was bright too .
Can you turn down brightness or contrast on the settings , does anyone know .
@johnkeen-jrdxn Hi John
What drone do you currently fly or referring too?
Generally it is you EV (Exposures values) which will adjust the scene if it is to dark or bright.
ISO keep ISO low possible at 100 to 400 in bright conditions to avoid grain,And in darker conditions adjust your ISO to 800 or lower for night shots. ![]()
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I fly a mini 2
What is ISO
@johnkeen-jrdxn Hi John, ISO is a cameras setting that measures the sensitivity of the image sensor to light, Directly affecting image brightness and quality.
You should be able to adjust your settings in the DJI fly app.
I have invested in a set of ND filters for my Mini 4 Pro, makes a huge difference to your images on brighter days…
Agreed, I was just replying ND filters. You should get some @johnkeen-jrdxn.
To expand a bit on the point @DroneDad was making above, there are really three variables in play when it comes to exposure (putting aside auto mode “EV” settings etc).
You have ISO, which is based on film speed (and gets translated into “sensor sensitivity” these days, broadly speaking). Lower values are less sensitive (“slower”) while higher values are more sensitive (“faster”) but also more prone to noise (fewer photons means more “grain” noise).
Then there’s aperture - again, in the traditional camera market literally the size of the hole that light comes in through. It’s measured in stops - lower values mean a bigger hole. To let in less light you can choose a higher stop, but this also affects focal length and depth of field, so you generally want to be able to be flexible with this depending on the look you’re after.
The third one is shutter speed, which in the traditional sense is how long, in fractions of a second, the aperture stays open to let in light. In the video world (especially digital video), we’re a bit limited on this - for smooth and cinematic footage the rule of thumb is 1/(frame rate * 2). Again there are stylistic choices you can make here but generally you are limited to a small range of shutter speeds if you want smooth footage. Choosing an “off angle” speed for example will give you horribly jerky footage, and also affect how moving object appear in your scene (LED flicker and apparently-stationary spinning wheels are two classic examples).
So with all that in mind, you have a delicate balancing act to get the look you want, with the right motion blur and depth of field, working within the parameters of the light you have in your environment. With a “naked” lens you’re even more limited - ND (neutral density) filters act like “sunglasses” for your camera, giving you a fourth variable you can control, thus giving you more flexibility in choosing the other three based on the look you’re after rather than being forced into a corner because you’re just dealing with too much light.
Even if you never touch pro mode, ND filters are still helpful since behind the scenes the auto modes are still working with the same limitations and trying to find a good balance of those same variables, so being able to sensibly limit the light entering the camera without changing the color profile of that light (that’s the neutral density part) is a huge bonus.
So yeah, get some ND filters for your drone ![]()
So , just been on my mini 2 and have done what you said and found what you said to do and now i know what ime doing so thankyou very much for that information ime so grateful for that ![]()
Great advice ![]()
